The Fashion Trend of Cultural Appropriation.

By Furvah Shah

From Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid in dreadlocks for Marc Jacobs to Gucci models in Sikh-style turbans and, most recently, Comme de Garçons models in braided wigs. Cultural appropriation in the fashion industry is a rampant and continuous problem that has caused widespread offence and debate. It can be loosely defined as the use of elements of a culture by members of another. This proves particularly controversial when it is the cultures of disadvantaged minorities that are being appropriated, which can be seen throughout popular culture. Zare Magazine asked a range of young women their opinions, thoughts and feelings on the issue of cultural appropriation in fashion.

Why do you think fashion brands appropriate cultural imagery?

Sofia, 25, London, Irish/Moroccan/Senegambian: For decades, black and brown people have been leading popular culture, trends and styles. For example, black people have created some of the most popular music forms of today. They do it because black and brown culture is dispensable to them. They can profit from it and remain protected by their privilege. 

Suzanna, 21, London, Nigerian: Because the ‘black look’ is what’s in fashion now. The most influential trends are started by black people, so they can just capitalise off of them.

Avital, 26, Frankfurt, Israeli: I think they take inspiration from different cultures to try to bring something new or unique. I don’t think they aim to offend anyone, maybe they just don’t notice when they take things too far.

Saara, 22, London, Lebanese/Bajan: Everyone wants to be us, without actually being us. They pick and choose which parts of us they want to play with according to their convenience. Big lips, hair, hips, skin-tones, jewellery and more. I think it’s easy to sell, black women have become products of sex, and sex sells. With the hair, oh boy, that’s a whole separate discussion. Our hair is used as a prop, its high fashion on the runway but ghetto on our own heads. They use it to look ‘edgy’ or ‘trendy’, but when it grows from our own heads or has a deep, historical meaning, it isn't convenient.

Haseebah, 22, Birmingham, Pakistani: Because cultural themes are seen as trendy and disposable, rather than significant, historical and long-lasting.

Jemima, 19, London, Congolese: For attention. They don't care and are only sorry when they’re caught!

Jemima, 19, London, Congolese

How does seeing cultural appropriation in the fashion industry make you feel?

Jemma, 21, Birmingham, Mauritian: I love that culture can be shown in a positive way, portraying us together and united as people should be.

Khasia, 18, London, Indian: Unheard and exploited. Especially when you take into consideration the topics of sweat-shops and poor working conditions for the people of our countries.

Joy, 21, London, South African/Ghanaian: Very uncomfortable, silenced, invisible, misused, identity-warped, capitalised upon and as an object.

Minah, 23, Manchester, Pakistani: Mixed opinions as it can show that they’re celebrating cultures, but it’s conflicted between appreciation and appropriation.

Jae, 30, Texas, Afro-Dominican: Just kind of annoyed and frustrated, but never shocked. 

Khasia, 18, London, Indian

When some brands apologise for appropriating cultural imagery, do you think their apologies are sincere and why?

Minah, 23, Manchester, Pakistani: I struggle to believe that they don't know what they’re doing. They're only sorry because they got called out on it. Designers don’t just sketch an idea and it then becomes reality, it goes through a lot of people first.

Jemima, 19, London, Congolese: It depends on the designer, but with most you can tell they're being insincere and uncaring. Most of the time, they’re only sorry that they got caught.

Rajeh, 36, London, North African: It’s not sincere. I work in public relations and most of the time, it’s all to do with protecting their sales and profit.

Suzanna, 21, London, Nigerian: No, because they just go on to do it again but in a different way. If they were truly sincere, they wouldn’t have done it to start with and would have done proper research.

Nazifa, 21, London, Bengali: No, because they’ve ultimately made their gain, profit and fame. Apologising after doesn't really do much, to be honest.

Suzanna, 21, London, Nigerian

How do you think cultural appropriation in fashion contributes to wider societal issues of racism and other forms of discrimination?

Sofia, 26, London, Irish/Moroccan/Senegambian: It maintains transactional oppression, in which white industries and capitalism continue to profit off of black and brown people.

Avital, 26, Frankfurt, Israeli: It might help in some cases to make some cultural attributes have more representation, but it should be done in a less theatrical way, in my opinion.

Hafsah, 20, London, Kenyan: It diminishes the history of certain clothing and hairstyles which, in some cases, should not be made into a fashion statement. It’s like the oppressors, even though I don't want to call them that, go the extra mile to abuse the power they have in controlling and changing history.

Warda, 22, London, Somali: It negates the discrimination that people of colour have experienced for years because of those same hairstyles and features that the fashion industry now wants to make fashionable.

Shereen, 22, Manchester, Bengali: They project the idea that it’s okay to steal and appropriate other cultures, with no acknowledgement or credit. So, this allows other people to think that it’s okay to be racist or prejudiced - it becomes the norm.

Sarina, 20, Wolverhampton, Indian: It’s like they want our culture, but couldn't face our struggles.

Hafsah, 20, London, Kenyan

What do you think could and should be done to tackle the issue of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry?

Suzanna, 21, London, Nigerian: Start teaching things like black-face and cultural appropriation in schools, not just slavery and other examples.

Arifa, 25, London, Indian: Have greater discussions around these issues in mainstream fashion, and provide more opportunities for ethnic models and creatives that endorse their natural look.

Khasia, 18, London, Indian: I don't even think you can do much, as even the vegan movement hasn't stopped fur coats and animal cruelty.

Shereen, 22, Manchester, Bengali: Educate people, put people of colour and, in particular, women of colour in figures and positions to hopefully help eradicate this issue. Also, have guidelines in place to ensure that credit is given where it is due.

Warda, 22, London, Somali: I don’t know, to be honest, as some white people never listen.